Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Sewing eye candy

All weekend, and pretty much all week, we've been involved with cleaning out here. Trips to goodwill, the trash can and off-loading stuff to college kids for apartments has been the order of the day.
Today, this week, I must work on the jersey dresses for myself and the girls, so that we have some casual easy dresses to wear to the beach in South Carolina next week.
oh, and I've been working on sampling and swatching for the next project, which will be my travel project for the car. I think I've arrived at the perfect match of pattern and stashed yarn - but will hold off announcing it till I'm sure.

Meanwhile, from the land of the sewing machine:

Originally uploaded by mlweaving
well, since I don't seem to be accomplishing much in the way of sewing or knitting I thought I'd bring you the details on an old project.
A sewist over on SG was wondering about stitching a princess seam dress, with godets, out of chiffon with french seams.
Just so happens, I've done that.

(OMG, it's time to hit the gym and diet with intention. Look how fit and in shape I was. oh, I want to cry...how did this happen to me in such a short time?)

Dress Fabric - embroidered and embellished silk chiffon
Godet Fabric - solid tomato color silk georgette
lining - china silk

Construction details:
I stitched the dress seams using a french seam to within about 3/4" of the godet point. Clip to the seam, and then stitched a regular seam, right sides together to the point of the godet.
I inserted the godets.
I constructed the lining, also using french seams. Didn't want any of those loose fraying edges showing through the chiffon. I then used the narrow roll hem foot for my Bernina to stitch the hems on each individual lining section.
the dress called for a center back zipper application - I put it in the back, then ripped it out and inserted it in the side seam, shortening the zipper to about 16". The show through on the back seam was really offensive.
Hemming the dress
After several false starts and trying of different methods, I ended up using fusible thread to start my hem finish.
1. I cut the hem 3/4" longer than I wanted the finished length of the dress.
2. I wound a bobbin with the fusible thread, then stitched 1/4" from the edge along the hemline
3. I ironed up the 1/4" right along the stitching line. at this point, the fusible thread bonds the turned edge and the top thread just pulls away from the fabric on the right side.
4. I trimmed as close as possible to the fused edge - leaving less than 1/8" turn under.
5. back at the machine I turned that edge under again and overcast stitched it using a small zigzag stitch, and changing both bobbin and top thread at every color change of the fabric.
sewing 192sewing 191


Erica B. said...

That dress is beautiful! I love the contrasting godets!

christina said...

Gorgeous dress. Thanks for sharing that technique on how you hemmed it, I'll have to store that in my memory for future reference.

cidell said...

Gah. My mouth started watering this is so lovely.

jae said...

Beautiful! Makes me want to start sewing...almost. ;)

Elizabeth said...

It's just gorgeous!

Shannon said...

That dress is amazing! I love the fabric - the watermelon colours are so fresh looking. Beautiful.

Summerset said...

Gorgeous! The color choices are different yet very refreshing. Thank you for posting the technique!

Tany said...

You really outdone yourself with this dress!! Just stunning! Thank you for sharing!

Romi said...

Wowza! It's absolutely stunning!

Laura said...

Oh my God, Marji, this dress is breathtaking!

Brigitte said...

Marji! How could you keep such a beautiful dress from us!

I LOVE it!

Crystal said...

Oh wow, I would so love to have a dress like that. It is BEAUTIFUL! Really amazing, and what gorgeous fabrics. I love the tomato red color. And it looks so fantastic on you! Had I made something this lovely, I would have shown it off long ago! :-p

Carrie K said...

That dress is so gorgeous! That used to be my favorite style, princess seam with godets. But alas, my figure from then has really gone to hades.

Lorraine said...

Marji- Aside from the great dress, how is it you always manage to have the perfect shoes?

How do you do that?

Janimé said...

That is an amazing dress!

Thanks for sharing it with us.

Becky said...

What great attention to detail! That is a gorgeous dress.

Adrienne said...

BEAUTIFUL dress!!!!! Love the contrast!