Monday, February 25, 2008

Island Pant construction, Burda 2989


Burda 2989

The design and concept for Island pants intrigued me for several seasons before I made a pair. They are lounging pants. Meant for poolside, seaside, resort wear, or the like.

The first pair I made, roughly three years ago, I used a patchwork eyelet/crinkle cotton/lace fabric, intending them to be a cover-up to wear poolside.

They were a lot more intriguing in concept than in actuality.

Island pants are wrap pants that are sewn up in the inseam and crotch seams only, with extra fabric that extends past the side seam line on both front and back, and long ties extending from the waistbands. They tie on.

After I made them, it felt a little like tying on a diaper.

There were a couple of problems I had trying to wear the first pair. The lace squares in the patchwork are so lacey and see-through that even poolside, they were a bit awkward.

And the ties never stay put, so the front or back was always riding up over the other panel. And, having a tie at center back at the waist meant that I couldn’t sit back comfortably. So I toyed with ideas about how I could change that waist arrangement everytime I picked them up and moved them from one side of the armoire shelf to the other. In any case, they languished.

Still, I found the concept intriguing. And I wanted a pair of breezy, full, lightweight pants to take with us to the Virgin Islands.

So, in the infamous words of Tim Gunn, I pulled some handkerchief weight turquoise linen out of the stash, and set about to “Make it Work”.

I cut them out, turned under the long vertical side seams on each front and each back ¼ inch twice and topstitched, then stitched and serged the inseams and crotch seams. Next, I matched the side seams lines at the waist, overlapping the back on the front, and pinned. Nope, if I stitched that closed, they weren’t going over my hips.

So, I opened out the waist opening so that it was barely an inch less than my full hip measurement, then pinned the overlap together at the waist.

Next, I cut a 4” wide waistband that same measurement long. I folded it in half, and stitched it to the waistline 1 to 1, leaving it open about an inch either side of the CB seam.

Then I inserted a 1 ¼” wide elastic in the waistband. And stitched the elastic right into the CB seam, then finished stitching the waistband to the pant at CB.

Voila, a pair of elastic waist pull-on pants that are ‘wrap’ pants that have no stitched side seam but have a comfortable waist that stays put. They are still modest enough in that they don’t fly open, even in the high trade winds of the Virgin Islands, until below the knee.

They are exactly what I wanted – definitely lounge pants. These won’t go to the grocery store, but they will do evening on the deck while barbequing here in the hottest summer months.

For this pant to be successful, I think only the lightest weight fabrics are suitable. Anything too heavy and they’re going to sit out like balloon pants.

Changes I would make on another pair, if I were to make them:

I would make sure that the width allowed the side seam markings to match and still go over my hips. In the case of using this Burda pattern, I’d have to cut a larger size…or just not stitch that shaping dart on front and back. I’d still stitch the dart at the side seam mark though. I like that shaping detail.

However, this could easily be drafted from any TNT pant pattern. Just straighten the side seam line up to the waist from the hip. Then add approximately 6 to 8” to the side seam (less if you’re petite, more if you feel you need it to balance your girth) to both the back leg and the front leg.

13 comments:

Vicki said...

I made a pair of those back in the 80's with a soft knit fabric. I never wore them much - maybe because they were bright red floral!!

Cennetta said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Alexandra said...

That's a cool idea! Perfect for a summer vacation.

Cennetta said...

I love those pants. Absolutely perfect for a caribbean vacation.

toya said...

wow, those look so comfy, forget summer vacation that is great lounge wear too

kbenco said...

I had a pair of these pants in a silk border print sari fabric - 2 layers and reversible. They were very pretty and comfortable and I wore them a lot - at home as pyjamas, as I never trusted them to stay closed. Your version looks much more practical, what a great idea.

Gwen said...

Super cool! I'm clipping this post so that I can try this myself some day... Thanks! :)
--Gwen

Linda said...

Very cool and beautiful fabric too. Welcome home...errr I think. You are probably missing that beautiful weather right about now. It was nice to see the vacation photos too.

LauraLo said...

Great changes that you made to that pattern. I'm really glad you're back, Marji!
P. S. And I'm very happy you got my letter, I was afraid it won't find you home and be returned.

Nancy K said...

very cool and they look like they are cool and comfy.

Tany said...

I made a very similar pair of pants two years ago! Yours look terrific!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Very cool and comfy looking pants.
I love the colour of the fabric.

tameka said...

I WAS NOT CLEAR ON HOW YOU ADD ELASTIC TO THESE PANTS. i REALLY WANTED PANTS THAT LOOK LIKE A SKIRT. THIS MAY BE CLOSE ENOUGH. IF YOU HAVE ANY IDEAS OR KNOW OF A PATTERN I CAN USE I WOULD APRECIATED THANKS.