Monday, March 10, 2008

All SWAP, all the time

This is the first installment in a series that will outline my entry for this years Timmel SWAP contest.

But before I get started - looky what I just got in the mail from my friend in NYC. (across the river really, but who's picky?) Many thank-you's m'dear.


It was wonderful to spend time with my sister. And, as always, there was way more on the slate than was feasible for two people who also require food and sleep. At least some of each in the space of 3.5 days.

The result in the sewing room is Chaos. I would say "organized chaos", but I'd be lying. I cannot, in good conscience, cover all that is in-process in one blog post...it would be inviting you into the chaos, and no one needs to go there.

So let's go to the "I'm so pleased" part of the sewing first...and one of the more time consuming garments included in the wardrobe.

SWAP installment one: A Top.

This is a "top" for the purposes of the wardrobe plan. It can be worn alone, without a top underneath, yet can also be worn as a jacket IRL.
the pattern, Vogue 8369 is a Claire Schaeffer design

You may remember The muslin:

The fabric is a synthetic blend boucle, very lightweight. Lightweight enough to wear in Florida.
If I were using the traditional Chanel technique of quilting the boucle to a silk lining and then constructing as a cardigan no underlining would be necessary. However, I'm using more traditional construction techniques, which means this boucle needed support.

lightweight boucle with light shining through Boucle block fused
After some evaluation, I chose a fusible weft-insertion interfacing, and block fused the boucle. Notice that the grain of the fusible is in-line with the grain of the boucle.
After block fusing, I cut apart the muslin and used it as pattern to cut the fashion fabric. I cut with 1" seam allowances. Good thing, as we will see in a moment. Next, the body was basted together. I love the extra long basting stitch on my Bernina - it takes the 5mm long stitch and only forms stitches on every other feed forward, so in effect I end up with a 10mm basting stitch. LOVE IT!


first fitting: notice how the princess seam angles out to the shoulder. What you also can't tell here from the angle of the pics, and the fact that it's boucle - is that the shoulder seam actually angles off in the direction of the back. In the second picture you'll see that I moved the princess seam over 3/4" on the right side, (compare it to the left side and you'll really see why it needed moving) leaving 1/4" of seam allowance on the side front and 1 3/4" on the front panel above the bustline moving up toward the shoulder. I also released the shoulder seams (fancy word for ripping out), and changed the angle of the shoulder seam, moving it as far forward as possible at the armscye - which is still too far back but it is what it is.
Then I transferred all this information to the muslin.

from the side: if you click on the pic and make it larger you'll also see that all that excess fabric at the back waist is gone, due to the horizontal fisheye dart taken out of the muslin.

Next, it was time to make decisions about trim.
I'd found a ball of ribbon ladder yarn - there is a word for it that is escaping me right now - while in Chicago last December, and picked it up. It's a variegated yarn, and the colors are 100% right on for this fabric. I thought Maybe we could use it to make trim.
Denise spent a LOT of time playing with yarn and some other bits and pieces including beads, trying to come up with a way to use it. Nuh uh. Not happening. Below is the ribbon yarn, gathered onto a solid black narrow ribbon, then scrunched up, and placed on a piece of the boucle. We tried unscrunching it a little, and a lot, and it just didn't cut it. Various more tries are on the flickr album which you can access by clicking on the photo below.



fitting denise 014
So we went shopping. First, we found the buttons that, if you look closely, you'll see on the boucle. They are the ball buttons in black made of the knotted soutache braid. They are perfect.
Then we went trim shopping.

two braids, layered, and attached to each other by black beads got the nod of approval. The beads are coming from an 18" length of bead fringe trim that I had leftover from some long ago project.
The first attempt at bead spacing ended up looking a bit high and "flowery".

By spacing the beads closer together, they sink down into the lighter pink braid, and look more like an integral part of the design, rather than something stuck on the top. This is the trim choice that got the final nod of approval.
trim and buttons on boucle

The left side princess seam has been moved now too, the back princess seams moved to match the front, and the shoulder angles changed.
I've toyed with the idea of supporting the neckline and front band of this jacket with extra interfacing. I've still got to sample some more, but right now, in the interest of Not adding too much structure, I'm leaning towards Not using any.
The lining is a silk twill from Fabric Mart - that famous tie lining they were selling in December for a ridiculous low price. There was a burgundy/black crossweave that is Perfect.
I'm thinking that the silk twill and the boucle supported by the fused weft insertion interfacing is going to be plenty of jacket without adding more structure.
Stay tuned.
Next comes setting in the sleeves

oh and pssst: Cidell and Trena are podcasting. Click here
(after you leave a comment you can click there ;)

20 comments:

Linda said...

What an accurate fit on that jacket. It looks like it was made for her. Oh wait, it was! Sigh.....why do you live so far away. Don't you need to visit your cousin anytime soon? I could use a fitting buddy like you. Have a wonderful time with your sister. You guys are a great team.

Shannon said...

It looks like this jacket is shaping up to be something special. I can't wait to see the finished product!

Tany said...

Oh Marji, I'm in awe with this jacket! I love what you did with the trim and I can't wait for what will follow!

Anonymous said...

My goodness, you are so creative. I really love the trim. Also, as a very new garment maker I enjoyed your description of fitting the jacket, especially the princess seams. Thanks. -Canadian Gail

Nancy K said...

The jacket is going to be really wonderful. The fit is fabulous and you didn't get the awful plaid oval on the bust I've seen in some princess jackets after an fba. I hope that you'll share how you fit the bust with us. How large a sas did you cut?
Posts like this really make your blog so wonderful.

a little sewing on the side said...

a-maz-ing.

This will be very enjoyable to follow along.
Lovely!!!!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

The trim is simply amazing! Love how you combined the two and added the beads. Your sister is going to look lovely in this jacket!

kbenco said...

Fabulous, I will enjoy watching you SWAP at this uberlevel.

Vicki said...

Fabulous fit! And I love how you have come up with the trim.

Lisa Laree said...

I'm loving that trim. What a great idea!

Can't wait to see how the finished jacket looks!

LauraLo said...

Wow, the fit of the jacket is perfect! I adore what you did with the trim and the buttons are gorgeous! This is going to be one beautiful jacket. I'm really looking forward for your next post

Anonymous said...

Great job on the fit and trim choices. Reading your blog gives a sense about what can be accomplished by planning and learning what choices to make. Fast and simple sewing doesn't have to be the only choice. :)
Miriam

Phyllis said...

I love that compound trim Marji! The beads are a *brilliant* idea.

Lindsay T said...

This will so helpful when I make my second faux-Chanel jacket in the summer. I agree with Phyllis about your trim solution--clever!

Carrie K said...

Oh wow, that's just so gorgeous! The trim is beautiful.

Podcast? [perks ears]. Awesome!

Erica B. said...

That jacket is fabulous already! I love the beading on the trim!

L-Del Sews said...

Hi there! Great blog! I am having so much fun lately finding new sewing blogs! I found yours from an artisan square post and was wondering if you found anyone willing to part with their January 2008 BWOF magazine. I am trying to track one down as well so I just thought I'd see. Hope you are having a great day!
Laura dot marschel at gmail dot com

Melinda said...

Lovely! Your ideas for trim is fantastic! I can't wait to see the finished jacket/top!

Summerset said...

Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous! I love the final trim combo - the beads do look better down in the trim rather than on top as an afterthought. Definitely a couture touch.

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