Friday, April 04, 2008

More V2898

SWAP St John knit 2 pc V2898 003
If the purpose of the twist to this years SWAP is to get you to get more mileage from a pattern, It's working here.

This time I made both the skirt and top, using a very special fabric from my stash, (well, 2 fabrics) a St John knit.
I don't own a coverstitch machine, and at this point, have no plans to buy one. Yet, for reasons that are totally arbitrary I decided to emulate the look of a coverstitch seam on this top.
I like the juxtaposition of the formality of the fabric with the casualness of the stitch.
I threaded the serger for a 4 thread serge, using Mettler polysheen thread, in white. The white is brighter than the cream of the fabric, but it creates a nice look, and I wanted to bring the color up a bit. I stitched the long seams Wrong sides together, then went over to the sewing machine. I folded the seam allowance to one side, then Using a straight stitch foot, I stitched along the very outside edge, catching the edge of the fabric and the loops from the serger and stitched the seam allowances down. I'm pretty impressed with how it came out.

Notice the coverstitch CF seam off to the righthand side of the pic.

After some experimenting though, the coverstitch look didn't look so good with the rib knit of the skirt, so I stitched those conventionally, right sides together.
Again, I straightened the seamlines up toward the waist from the hip, and again attached a hollywood style waistband with elastic in it, to create a pull on skirt.

as noted when I made up the black lace set, I raised the neckline, both front and back on this top by 1 1/2", I made the strap an inch wider, and in doing the FBA I ended up adding both a dart and extra to the CF curve. Oh, and for the knit, I didn't cut it on the bias - no point. I cut it on the straight grain of the knit.

Overall, I think it's really pretty, and will work well with the other pieces in the wardrobe.

re comments
Toya wrote that bias tape makers are showing up all over the place (I must have my head under a rock, since I didn't know this) and wondered if she should buy one, although she doesn't know why she'd use it. This is excerpted from my reply to her:
I wouldn't recommend buying a bias tape maker just because they're showing up all over the place. Do you every use single fold or double fold bias tape? The stuff you buy at Joanns next to the hem tape? If not, then you probably don't need a bias tape maker either. I use bias tape all the time, but 99 times out of 100 I would prefer to use self fabric rather than the heavier cotton or rayon or whatever it is they're making commercial bias tape out of these days. I'm sure you saw that bias tape that I used to finish the armscyes in the black top I just finished - the last picture on the blogpost. I used the bias tape maker to make the bias for that - because, even though I'm pretty good with an iron, I'm not good enough to turn under 1/4" on each side, toward the center, of a 1" strip of bias. Bias tape makers should be showing up all over for quilters - since quilters use them probably more than anyone else. If you ever want to use something like silk organza or habotai or Ambiance to make the bias to do a hong kong seam finish, or to bind edges instead of using facings, a bias tape maker is invaluable. If you don't do Hong Kong seam finishes - then you probably don't need one. (and for the most part, don't bother with pressing a poly bias strip - it won't hold the press long enough to be able to use the tape.

21 comments:

Adrienne said...

How beautiful. I have never noticed this pattern before but now I have it on my list!

Lori said...

Beautiful outfit, the fabric is gorgeous.

gatorgirl4325 said...

Gorgeous! What a cool way to make the seams on the top - it really adds interest. Those knit fabrics are to-die-for!

Shannon said...

Beautiful outfit - that fabric is TDF!!

toy said...

first of all,, wow, on the new outfit, that knit,, and you know I love knits, is seriously giving me a rapid heart beat right now, I would have never looked twice at the pattern but I think everyone is going to add it to their stash now that you have rocked it to the point of fabulosity.
Next, I didn't get them email with that info, so I am so happy you post it on your blog because I won't haven't have known,, now you really got me worried, if you use bias tape so much and I don't then I must be doing something wrong.

donyale said...

You know it's all greek to me - but I love reading about biassssss, and knits, and and and.....all the wonderful things you create.

Carrie K said...

I'm always impressed how your garments come out.

You know when I'm Empress of the Universe you're going to be My Imperial Seamstress, right? Just so you're prepared. :)

Nancy K said...

gorgeous outfit and wonderful technique on the seams. How inventive of you! That fabric is just amazing. Would love to know who buys their yard ends.

designdreamer said...

Love this outfit too!
Count me as one that loves knits also, and though I'm not really familiar with St. Johns knits, I know I looked at a link that someone (Mary Beth, or one of the other Sewing Divas?) posted, and they had very nice things. So, I'm thinking you must really love your sister to be giving her this fabric. 'Course you obviously love your sister to be doing this wardrobe for her. I hope she knows how much!! I have six sisters myself, and although we all learned how to sew, some of us do it more than others, and as far as I know I'm the only one that really sews garments, so I'm just curious if your sister sews or has ever learned, and what makes one sister such an expert, and the other not?

designdreamer said...

Oh, I forgot to ask if you could show us a close-up of that seam, I'm very interested.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Another beautiful outfit...geeze...is there anything you can't make!

Vicki said...

Both outfits (this and the prior post) are lovely and would be very comfortable to wear. Lucky sister getting that St John's knit!

And thanks for nominating me for an Excellence award. I am still working on fitting (between looking at all this eye candy!)

kbenco said...

This is another great outfit. I am really enjoying your sister SWAP. I also liked your bias tape maker post.Being a mad keen children's clothes constructor, I use bias tape all the time, but I have a bias tape maker with a plastic pull and am quite happy with it, I probably just don't know any better, having never seen a 100% metal version.

Becky said...

That turned out beautifully! I love the details you added. Very classy.

Tany said...

Lovely set, I could see myself wearing it! Love the fabric too!

LauraLo said...

It's gorgeous, simply gorgeous, I love your "coverstitched" seams and the knits... oh my they seem so luxurious

paco peralta said...

Marji, this beautiful two pieces. I love this color. Greetings. Paco

Linda said...

I love this top and skirt. I like what you did emulating the coverstitch, nice idea.

Kelroc said...

oh I just love that fabric. It real worked with that pattern. great job.

Anonymous said...

Hello just wondering where did you but your st john knit i would love some

Gwen said...

Wow! What a great outfit! I love the kicky flounces along the bottom of the skirt! :)
--Gwen