Friday, April 04, 2008
If the purpose of the twist to this years SWAP is to get you to get more mileage from a pattern, It's working here.
This time I made both the skirt and top, using a very special fabric from my stash, (well, 2 fabrics) a St John knit.
I don't own a coverstitch machine, and at this point, have no plans to buy one. Yet, for reasons that are totally arbitrary I decided to emulate the look of a coverstitch seam on this top.
I like the juxtaposition of the formality of the fabric with the casualness of the stitch.
I threaded the serger for a 4 thread serge, using Mettler polysheen thread, in white. The white is brighter than the cream of the fabric, but it creates a nice look, and I wanted to bring the color up a bit. I stitched the long seams Wrong sides together, then went over to the sewing machine. I folded the seam allowance to one side, then Using a straight stitch foot, I stitched along the very outside edge, catching the edge of the fabric and the loops from the serger and stitched the seam allowances down. I'm pretty impressed with how it came out.
Notice the coverstitch CF seam off to the righthand side of the pic.
After some experimenting though, the coverstitch look didn't look so good with the rib knit of the skirt, so I stitched those conventionally, right sides together.
Again, I straightened the seamlines up toward the waist from the hip, and again attached a hollywood style waistband with elastic in it, to create a pull on skirt.
as noted when I made up the black lace set, I raised the neckline, both front and back on this top by 1 1/2", I made the strap an inch wider, and in doing the FBA I ended up adding both a dart and extra to the CF curve. Oh, and for the knit, I didn't cut it on the bias - no point. I cut it on the straight grain of the knit.
Overall, I think it's really pretty, and will work well with the other pieces in the wardrobe.
Toya wrote that bias tape makers are showing up all over the place (I must have my head under a rock, since I didn't know this) and wondered if she should buy one, although she doesn't know why she'd use it. This is excerpted from my reply to her:
I wouldn't recommend buying a bias tape maker just because they're showing up all over the place. Do you every use single fold or double fold bias tape? The stuff you buy at Joanns next to the hem tape? If not, then you probably don't need a bias tape maker either. I use bias tape all the time, but 99 times out of 100 I would prefer to use self fabric rather than the heavier cotton or rayon or whatever it is they're making commercial bias tape out of these days. I'm sure you saw that bias tape that I used to finish the armscyes in the black top I just finished - the last picture on the blogpost. I used the bias tape maker to make the bias for that - because, even though I'm pretty good with an iron, I'm not good enough to turn under 1/4" on each side, toward the center, of a 1" strip of bias. Bias tape makers should be showing up all over for quilters - since quilters use them probably more than anyone else. If you ever want to use something like silk organza or habotai or Ambiance to make the bias to do a hong kong seam finish, or to bind edges instead of using facings, a bias tape maker is invaluable. If you don't do seam finishes - then you probably don't need one. (and for the most part, don't bother with pressing a poly bias strip - it won't hold the press long enough to be able to use the tape.