Now, I want to tell you, this is serious, when I start dreaming about pattern drafts.
And I couldn't go back to sleep. So I got up, and began searching for all the info I could cobble together regarding the most recent information on pant fitting.
There is a tab for Knowledge Base at the top of every Pattern Review page. Given the number of frequent "how do I?" questions on the message boards on PR, it's fairly evident that many people don't know the knowledge base tab is up there.
Admittedly, the organization of information once you're in a topic leaves a lot to be desired, but since it's just an index of the references available on PR, it's a good place to start.
I clicked on Knowledge Base, then clicked on Fitting - Pants, then started clicking on the various links to articles and message boards and expert chats.
There is some good stuff there. I referenced all the stuff that I think pertains to Me, then organized it all into a WORD doc that I can take downstairs with me to the cutting table to put into use when I make my muslin.
I'd like to share the links and references here.
My WORD doc for fitting pants:
Start with basic pattern.
Fit the hip/crotch
- Determine Posture type and Hip type – fig 1 and 2 (from this reference).... I am a "backward tilted hip" <> [diamond] shape
- Take measurements per chart- same reference.
- Measure crotch width and depth per first set of directions using L squares to determine body space needed (from this reference)
- measure crotch curve using curved ruler or foil per Belindas directions/ see Belinda's post below here to establish angle of CB seam. This is from Pg 221 of the Aussie's Down Under chat board on PR, and was posted by Belinda /Sew4Fun -any lightbulbs going on yet?
Date: 3/15/06 8:00 PM
I had a look at the photos of your crotch curve versus your pattern.
Now I haven't read the Threads article but I learnt how to do this a few years ago from an experienced German patternmaker. It was the best thing I ever did and I've never looked back. It's not the total answer to good fitting pants but it's a large part. It was light bulb moment for me. It is useless though unless you do it correctly.
In your photos you are not lining up the pattern pieces correctly. You must line up the first 10-15cms of the inseams in order to do this correctly. Here is what I mean -
This diagram is all very rough and not 100% accurate, but it should give you the idea. The one on the left is a flat buttocks. The one on the right is a sway back/ larger buttocks.
The distance from the your back to the straight line (CB wedge) must match the distance from the straight line to the CB seam on the pants pattern. This determines how slanted your CB seam will be. The flatter your buttocks the straighter the CB seam. The larger the CB wedge (buttocks) the larger the CB slant.
It does get more complex but this is your starting point for your basic pants block. I won't explain the next step as it will probably confuse you. The important thing to note is you must match the inseams on your pants pattern correctly. Maching just the crotch points isn't correct and it won't give you the right answer.
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
- alter for sway back, round butt, tilted waist - my normal alterations anyway.
Fit the legs
- referring to Els diagram to alter for full front thighs, alter pants front, Els, from The Sewing Divas has a great diagram on it.
- referring to the Minott method photos, alter for diamond shape hip/saddlebags
Make a muslin
- mark grain line full length in the center of each leg front and back
- mark horizontal lines at waist, hip, thigh, knee
For fitting muslin refer to these pics for ideas.
The Kenneth King alteration that Beth at TheRustyBobbin did so well is here, scroll down to April 4
Debbie Cook's Wedge alteration
Debbie Cook's Fisheye Dart alteration
Thanks for the commiseration. Admittedly, I should probably only wear full flared pants that hang from the outside hip for pure flattery - but, I live where it's HOT, and humid. Skirts really are my best option, although they're not practical every single day. So, I need some shorts and capri length pants - Trinny and Susannah notwithstanding.
I will get a muslin made up - and go through the process - and publish it.
But today it's time to get back on track with The Great Coat Sewalong,
And, dsd#1 is due into town this afternoon and will be here for 2 days, and she's due for a fitting or two.
oh, and if anyone has diagrams or info on how to change the angle of the pant leg so that after it accounts for my bike riding quads (front thighs), they'll also not bunch up over my well developed calves, I'd really appreciate it.
(I know, wide palazzo pants.) ;)