Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Button loops,

Back to working on Vogue 8369, a jacket started back in February, first post here.

Back in February I started too many garments, and it all got crazy, and I finished some, but not all. Then It all got put aside when I got hurt in April, and I'm only now getting it all out again, a piece at a time, to finish.
Progress to date:
Muslin fit - done
block fuse boucle - done
cut out jacket - done
Construct fashion fabric shell - done
assemble 3 layer trim - done by D, whose jacket this is
apply trim - 1/2 done

This week I finished sewing on the trim around the neckline and front of the jacket, have finished trimming out one sleeve, and am ready to start on the other. I also finally got the button loops figured out and finished.

I have Very Very little in the way of scrap to work with after cutting this jacket out. Certainly not enough to cut any pockets, nor any bias strips, so the button loops must be cut from a straight grain length of fabric.

First, I cut a length 3/4" wide by however long the scrap was, and tried stitching a tube, right sides together and turning it. No Way was this going to work. The boucle is too loosely woven and too heavy to turn back through a tube.
In the end, I cut a 3/4" wide strip and took it to the ironing board.
I folded the strip lengthwise as if for a piece of single fold bias tape - raw edges meeting in the center, wrong sides together, press, then folding it in half. I then handbasted the piece together along the folded edge.
Next I took it to the machine, set the zigzag on wide, and, holding the "tube" taut front and back, zigzag stitched over the whole tube. This finally gave some stability to the piping I'd created, and the thread buries itself into the fabric so it really isn't visible as a stitching line.

Next I used a piece of graph paper to mark the button and loop placement. In this case for this jacket, I felt it was more important to put one button in each black square than to follow the pattern suggested placement, for visual balance, so that is how I marked it.

I then stitched the loops to the graph paper, then lined the graph paper up and stitched it to the Right front of the jacket. Then I tore the paper away from the stitching lines.

After folding the raw edge under, this is how the button loops look on the front.

I then stitched a loop line together for the sleeve placket
Not going to work. The cording is too heavy and the results were just bulky and awkward.

So I cut some bias strips from the silk charmeuse that is being used for lining this jacket, and made some cording for the button loops from that.

Using the same graph paper technique, only inserting a strip of grograin ribbon under the loops for stitching, I created a loop line to insert into the sleeve placket opening.


The lining is left to be stitched in, and the buttons need to be sewn on. Then it and the cape will go into the mail to Florida. (along with a pair of pants that are finished except a buttonhole on the waistband...and a skirt that just needs a bit finished on the lining.

Bad idea, getting too many garments started and not finished, at once.

1 comment:

Melodye said...

Marji, what a great tutorial. And the idea of using graph paper to space the loops is brilliant. Thanks for taking the time to document this. It's a keeper.