I spent all day working on this jacket, which is the project I'm working on for the coat-sewalong right now.
fused stay tape at pocket edge
attaching wigan at hemline - stitched to side seams and hand stitched with running stitch along fold line. Still needs to be pressed to fit shape of hem.
pad stitching. Shaping is achieved by stitching the lines while holding the lapel curved over the hand, and taking small "bites" of a stitch that doesn't go all the way through the fashion fabric. As each row is stitched, the next line is moved to roll over the top of the hand underneath.
I've got the body put together, have started putting together the lining, have assembled the sleeves, and have started assembling the asides - such as the epaulettes, the belt carriers, etc.
To see a 12 minute video of the technique for these hand stitches involved in tailoring see this YouTube video from Otis college on Tailoring techniques. The pad stitching is shown in the last 30 seconds - and I've found if you are in a hurry to get there you can move the play icon forward with your mouse.
Meanwhile, to start an inventory of the UFO's that I hope/intend to finish this fall: I have 2 coats and 4 jackets under construction - oops, just remembered another jacket. Begun in January 07 for the RTW knockoff challenge on PR - then ran out of time...and set it aside. I'd love to pull it out and finish it to wear this fall.
A coat I started, and neglected to underline. After basting together the outer shell and realizing it needed to come apart and be underlined, I set it aside... The big portrait collar is of velvet.
A coat I cut and started in v late winter '05. It gets warm here so much earlier than I'd been accustomed to, and I set it aside, then buried it in a drawer...and forgot about it.
Cut this jacket out 3 weeks ago. I need some clothes to wear to work. ASAP This is a cotton with a navy print - and it's not going to be lined.
Started back in '06 when teaching a class in the french collarless jacket. Pieces are cut, fused, some assembly done.