Thursday, September 11, 2008

Running around like a chicken without a head

The Scaasi Dress

It's been finished and then unfinished. I had to take the darts in the front out. I'm going to have to make an appointment to get together with my friend Helen, the dressmaker, and have her re-pin my front.
I know the front was cut ongrain. But after the dress was on, it pulled something awful to the left. It had everything to do with the mounting of the underlining and the 4ply silk. I wish to God I'd basted it all together by hand before stitching it.
But I didn't.
So, I finally, after fussing and fussing, I removed the front darts and put it back on. Hangs perfectly, beautifully, straight. A little shapeless but straight.
What I'm going to do - stitch the darts in the 4ply only, and cut the dart fisheyes out of the organza, in the appropriate places, then catch stitch the organza to the dart on the wrong side.
I can't have this dress hanging wrong.
I did get the few things here fixed that needed fixing. And I repositioned the top of the zipper on the back so it's all good.

So, right now Helen is in England. When she gets back, I'll make a beeline for her house.

Meanwhile, I've put in some time on my Guy Laroche jacket project.
My own progress
I've decided, working on my burgundy wool/cashmere jacket, that bound buttonholes are not appropriate for this quasi-military style jacket that has epaulets/belt/sleeve tabs and is double breasted. So I was able to move right on to the interfacing for the front. My buttonholes will be made at the end of construction.

Because I'm not confident of my ability to get wonderfully perfect straight lines doing my padstitching, since I don't do it every week, I draw lines in pencil on my hair canvas. This is commonly accepted practice.
My pattern didn't have a roll line.
I neglected to mark it before I took the muslin apart (what was I not thinking?), So I chose to draw the roll line from the large dot.
Last night, while watching Project Runway I got the first lapel padstitched. Then I draped it on my front, with the collar piece, holding all together, and realized that I should have chosen the straight mark as opposed to the round one. So, I added 3 lines. If you click on the picture to make it larger you'll see the merge of the two angles. I could have been really AR and taken it all apart, but I didn't. It's fabric. It'll roll.

And now I've got to get ready to go away again this weekend. It's the weekend of the Georgia/South Carolina game - and since the girls are each attending one of those schools, we're going to Columbia SC for the game, in lieu of parent's weekend.
That means 26 hours in the car over the next 3 days, so I've got to get organized and packed.
I've got to figure out what project to take with me too.

I Do Not Want To Start ANything New!
repeat, with feeling.
So I'm going to go through unfinished projects and see what is appropriate for travel projects.

And, when I get back, I'm going to acknowlege the new blog awards I've been nominated for (thank you) and pass along the love.


cidell said...

I'm getting goosebumps watching these two develop. Honestly, goosebumps.

kbenco said...

Your dress is looking beautiful.I am really enjoying these peeks at the progress.

Erica B. said...

Your dress is exquisite! I can't wait to see it complete!

LauraLo said...

Can't wait to see the dress. It's so gorgeous already and I hope your friend Helen will help you fix it soon. Seeing your photos of padstitching and hair canvas make me want to try a traditionally-tailored jacket as soon as possible. I'm prepared, I read a lot and I have all the notions ready... It's just the time and a bit of determination that I lack :)

designdreamer said...

Oooooohhh! Looks gorgeous so far! I've always liked lace, but you're pushing me over the edge with that dress you did for dsd, and now this. I'm just trying to think of an occasion to wear it to! I lead a very casual life. Sigh.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

So, dumb padstitching question. I've never quite understood...does it show on the underside of the collar when the jacket is finished? I've just never been clear what is stitched to what and wear.

Carrie K said...

That dress is a marvel to behold! More than beautiful, Marji.

I see you were influenced by Blayne's project. (Okay, not. But I couldn't resist. Was that a mess or what?)

Summerset said...

I'll admit I'd be frustrated with having to take it apart, but knowing that it will be right and hanging straight in the end is more important. I know this will be magnificent when finished!

Christina said...

The Scaasi dress is going to be gorgeous! Wow!

Birgitte said...

It is so beautiful, a pure feast for the eyes.

I passed three blog awards on to you. I know you've been awarded already, so just ignore it if you'd like. Just wanted to recognize you.

Mary, Mary... said...

Yipes, some of this makes me nervous just looking at it. Have a safe drive with all that knitting time!

tommy said...

My, I'm jealous just looking at the beginning of that dress. I wish I could sew like that! You are so creative. Sometimes I just get to thinking that my sewing machine and me were just not made to be compatible.

Meg said...

I just read Scaasi's biography this summer. There's an example of his patron's loyalty included in the book that knocked me out. Some society lady ON HER DEATHBED was going in and out of consciousness. Her friend of many decades sat and talked to her, getting no response but hoping she might hear and be comforted. Running out of things to say, she began telling her dying friend about the new collections of various designers.

The dying woman sat up in bed and declared, "What do I care? I only wear Scaasi!"

AllisonC said...

Oh wow you are going to be the best dressed headless chicken ever! Sorry for all the pain of having to unmake the dress but I know it will be worth it.