Monday, October 06, 2008


It's coming along. Needs shoulder pads and sleeve heads, hemming, topstitching, buttonholes and belts (yes, belts - the sleeves are "belted". I need to either find belt buckles or send my belts to CA to get them made, ASAP). Oh, and the rest of the lining needs to be stitched in. I should be able to wear this while in TC at the end of the month.

Meanwhile, yesterday I graded out the MOG dress pattern (of course it's vintage and so the size isn't right), and got the prelim muslin made.
There were some surprises. The front of the skirt has pleated tucks emanating diagonally from the CF seam. Who knew? The illustration on the pattern envelope focuses on the back, and the front is not really visible, except in a black drawing, and there are no line drawings.

my front pattern piece - sorry, it's hard to photograph tissue tracing paper.

the instruction sheet.

I haven't muslined the skirt. I was playing with the bodice. I'm really considering just putting the front on the fold and eliminating that pleat business. I don't really think I need emphasis on the bit of tummy that I'm wearing industrial strength Spanx to try to control. :)
The bodice CF also has an unnecessary (In my eyes) seam too - which I've eliminated by placing it on the fold. Since the CF is on the straight of grain, both in the skirt and the bodice, what would be the point of a CF seam? Especially in this solid color silk.
I've got to still work a bit on the whole underarm / sleeve portion


Helen said...

Darts from CF toward hip. What an interesting design element. I do agree with you that it is probably not going to be visible in your fabric, but I don't think it will draw attention to your stomach.

Since the darts release toward the hip, I think it might add softness over the hips. But, that doesn't make sense, since there's that panel in the back.

Is there anything going on in the front bodice? So that these skirt darts are a reflection of bodice darts?

You could make up a little tiny one in muslin -- 1/4 scale Barbie sized -- to see what the effect is. It might be more interesting than the standard front darts, which you'd need in a slim, fitted skirt like this one. And it might give you more sitting ease for the reception.

Helen said...


I looked at the picture of the dress again. It is hard to see the details in that black!

But, the darts in the skirt echo the shoulder detail. They also may create a very flattering line like a peplum.

Carrie K said...

Pleated tucks from the center front? Weird. I'd eliminate them myself, if I could. It's a beautiful dress though.

Meg said...

I always love a book recommendation. I'll be checking this one out. Thanks!