Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Your input requested

The Knitting Corner
Someone who is near and dear to me is knitting the Honeycomb Vest from Knitty.
After getting a long ways into the project, it's been decided to add sleeves. I offered to write a pattern for a sleeve.
It'll be easy once I get my schematic down. The question I have, and this is really a construction/pattern drafting question and not a knitting question, so all my sewing friends, this question is for you. Must I redraw the armscye? I think so.
My inclination is to rewrite the pattern for the top of the bodice to add shoulder width, in addition to writing a pattern for a sleeve. I'm thinking that the armscye is cut in so far for the vest that it'll be impossible to get a nice sleeve set in. Oh, and I'll need to eliminated the ribbing and add pattern stitches anyway at the armscye.
Below is the schematic.
Confirm my thoughts? I've drawn the line I think I need to have in red.
edit to ask:
This is being knit in the smallest size. The wearer is a size 0-2 RTW. The depth on the armscye as written is 7.75". Since the consensus seems to be that the armscye needs to come up, anyone have any ideas about how deep that armscye should be? Sommerset? Jae? Someone who's petite or sews for that size typically?

The Sewing Studio
Meanwhile, I've pulled some real bonehead moves in the sewing dept lately.
One is failing to stop by either Joanns or Hancock last weekend and pick up a Simplicity pattern.
Awhile back someone posted some Anthropologie items on Stitchers Guild, among them this top

Photo of Anthropologie Top, no longer avail on their website
I heart this top. Mostly the fabric, and the sleeves. I don't so much love the actual fabric as the idea of it. The color at the hem bleeding into the monochrome of the top. And the texture. And I love the sleeves. Right after I saw it, I began thinking about how to duplicate that sleeve. The next week I saw the Simplicity pattern offerings, and there was a blouse, with this sleeve. Or something close enough to an approximation of it. Cool! Look up when Simplicity will be having a sale. Can't make it.... Look for the next one. Even write it on the calendar. Then forget and don't even look at the calendar. Dang!
The blouse: Simplicity 2501

In any case, That top, the design elements, have stayed with me. I think I have to keep thinking on it, and see where I end up with it.

Tomorrow: The incident with the plaid. Just plain dumb move on my part.


Cindy said...

I so wish that I had enough knitting knowledge to help you with the vest/sweater! My dream to be a better knitter!

And pattern sale, I did the exact same thing! I missed the big Hancock Sale on vogue...I don't know about Joann but Hancock will have a big pattern sale Halloween weekend.

Mardel said...

I've done the same thing with the pattern sales. Well, I only have a JoAnn near here, but I've missed the sales. I love that top too, mostly the idea of the way the pattern bleeds up into the top and the sleeves, love the sleeves.

As to the vest-into-cardigan, I agree completely. Eliminate the ribbing and the shoulder line at the vest is still cut into the shoulder too much for a sleeve, but it will be a simple enough fix I think. It will also be lovely with sleeves.

Looking at the photos I am also wondering about the armhole depth, but of course some of that could be fixed by using the pattern to start the shaping and just not adding the ribbing. I don't know if you want it as high as it is with the ribbing or as low as it is without it. I am sure it depends on the person and the size.

Jenny said...

Definitely need to make the shoulders wider. If you look at the vest photo and mentally remove the ribbing, the edge of the vest's shoulder is only halfway out the model's shoulder. (Does that make any sense?) I agree with you - you need to redo the armscye, too.

Summerset said...

Speaking from both kntting and sewing experience, I agree, the shoulder/armscye is too narrow as is for sleeves, with and especially without the ribbing. I think the change you've proposed in red is the right course of action for the section between the shaping of the armscyes and the binding off for the shoulder on both front and back. If left as is, the armscyes would either be too binding or would only fit so far on the shoulder, pulling the neckline out to either shoulder and skewing that lovely u-shape.

Kathleen C. said...

Yep! Same agreement with the armscye change as the others... Mardel has a point about the depth as well; seems as though it might be a touch low. I'd want to measure a well fitting knit top to make sure.

Carrie K said...

That blouse looks like a dinosaur puffing up to me. We will not delve into why.

Add me to the consensus of the shoulders needing more width. No clue about the armscyes though. Generally a closer fit is more comfortable/flattering.

jae said...

Clearly, the group has spoken about the shoulder width. And I would have to agree (assuming the person in question, is as wide in the shoulders as the model in the photo)

My armhole depth is usually 7.25 - 7.5" when knitting 34" finished bust and 0" ease. Just for reference. :)

a little sewing on the side said...

My sleevless TNT sewing pattern has a smalleer armscye than my TNT pattern with sleeves.
The only difference is the sleeveless armscye has a dart, that has been rotated out to create a larger bust dart.
clear as mud, I am sure.
And I have NO IDEA how it would relate to knitting.
Oh yes, these knitted garments are to-die-for!!
I can see how you get so excited by knitting.

Bonnie D. said...

I can't help you on the sleeve design but wanted to thank you for having Honeycomb on your blog. I missed it when it was published on Knitty and really like it! I just added it to my queue at Ravelry.

Lorraine said...

I'd widen the shoulder and raise the armscye to where the top of the ribbing hits. (1" maybe)